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Automatic Bathroom Light

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Ganesh kashid
MAX Technologies

Project : : AUTOMATIC BATHROOM LIGHTS


This simple circuit can be used as an automatic bathroom lamp controller. It disables the bathroom lamp at daytime and enables it at night. The circuit is built around a light-dependant resistor (LDR1), reed switch (S1), two transistors BC547 (T1) and SK100 (T2), a 12V 1-change over (C/O) relay (RL1), a step-down transformer X1 (12V-0-12V, 250mA secondary) along with some discrete components.

The working of the circuit is based on the opening/closing of the bathroom door. When the bathroom door is closed, magnet comes near the reed switch and shorts its terminals. Both transistors T1 and T2 stop conducting, and neither relay RL1 energises nor CFL lamp (B1) glows.

When bathroom door is opened, magnet moves away from the reed switch and opens its terminals. Both transistors T1 and T2 conduct, relay RL1 energises and CFL lamp (B1) glows.
When bathroom door is opened, CFL lamp (B1) remains on. After entering the bathroom do not close the door completely. If the bathroom door is completely closed, lamp (B1) is switched off.

During daytime, lamp operation is not necessary due to the presence of sunlight so LDR1 is used. Fit LDR1 near the bathroom window where it can receive sunlight (reflected sunlight is enough). At daytime if you open the bathroom door, resistance of LDR1 reduces and keeps both transistors T1 and T2 in cut-off state. Relay RL1 does not energise and lamp remains off.

At night, if you open the bathroom door, resistance of LDR1 is high, which keeps both the transistors T1 and T2 in conducting state. Relay RL1 energises and lamp (B1) is switched on. The power supply required to operate the circuit is derived from transformer X1.Like Us on FACEBOOK

Assemble the circuit on a general purpose PCB and enclose in a suitable cabinet. Fix LDR1 near the bathroom window in such a way that maximum light falls on it at daytime. Fix the reed switch on the frame of bathroom door and magnet on the door. Keep the transformer inside the cabinet and place the unit above/near the bathroom door

CellPhone Operated Landrover

Coming SOON >........................................

Serial AVR ISP ( In System Programmer) Simple

My Prototype

This is a very simple and easy to build programmer for Atmel microcontrollers from AVR family. The microcontrollers must support serial programming. This programmer is connected to a PC through the RS232 serial interface and can be used with the PonyProg.

Description of the serial programmer

The programmer is quite simple and it is based on the SI-Prog from the author of PonyProg software. The Zener diodes D2, D3 with the resistors R2, R3 reduce the voltage from the ouput pins DTR, RTS on the serial port to around 5V which is suitable for microcontroller (MOSI, SCK). MISO signal is connected directly to the input CTS pin. The Zener diode D1 with the resistor R1 drive the NPN transistor T1, which controls RESET signal. The AVR microcontrollers are in reset when the signal has low level. The resistor R5 works as a pull-up for reset signal. The resistor R4 helps to close the transistor T1. The programmer has standard 10 pins header.

  

Using PonyProg 2000

PonyProg I/O Port Setting

When you want to program your microcontroller with the PonnyProg2000 you have to setup the program as you can see on the following picture. You have to select chosen COM port, where is connected your programmer.

Circuit Schematic

Schematic of the serial programmer

If you Wanna Buy it From Me then Just Leave me a mail.

And if wanna do it yourself and if need any PCB layout File Or any Query Just feel Free to Ask me 

Thank you

Regards,

Ganesh Kashid

maxtechnologies.mumbai@gmail.com

www.max-technologies.webs.com

 

When Love and Skill Work together, expect a masterpiece.

When Love and Skill Work together, expect a masterpiece.

How To make PCB's At Home DIY

CREATE YOUR PCB LAYOUT DESIGN

Start out by laying out the PCB traces & pads with your favorite CAD or PCB design program. I used Dip Trace, mainly because I found that program pretty easy to use, and it’s free for download. You’re supposed to use Diptrace to design a board, then send the file to the company for manufacture. Instead, I use this design to create my own etching mask.

PRINT THE MASKS

This is a tricky step. You need to print the masks onto special paper, and make them as dark as possible. Here’s how I did it. I used Jet Print Multi-Project glossy photo paper. I had to order it online, but it might be available at larger office supply stores.

These papers are marketed as ink-jet papers. But for this process, you need to run them through a laser printer. The toner creates the mask. And, you want the toner to be as dark and dense as possible. I found that if you tell the printer that you’re printing a transparency, it’ll apply more toner. I also adjust various settings on the printer menus (e.g., toner density, optimization, etc.) to get the densest possible print — your printer settings will vary. Experiment to see what works best, and take notes as you go so you’ll be able to duplicate your best efforts later. I burned through quite a bit of paper before I got it right, but now I get it right the first time.

If your PCB design has long vertical traces, you might orient the design on the page so that the long traces are angled. Because of the direction that paper travles through laser printers, long vertical traces might lose toner density near the bottom. Angling the long traces helps keep the toner dense on the full length.

Remember to print the copper mask “right-reading” — i.e. NOT a mirror image — but the “silkscreen” mask shold be printed in reverse.

Make a print or two and find a mask that is uniformly dense with a minimum of pinholes. Make sure all the traces and pads are complete.

PREPARE THE BLANK PCB BOARD

Cut your board to size, leaving a little extra room around the edges. I use a hacksaw, which leaves some burrs. Smooth any burrs off with a dremel or small file. You want the copper surface to be as flat as possible. Sand the surface of the blank board with 400-600 grit sandpaper in both diagonal directions in a crosshatch pattern. Then, use acetone on a paper towel to clean the board as thoroughly as possible. Grease spots are your enemy! Scrub the board really well.

ATTACH THE MASK TO THE BLANK PCB BOARD

Carefully cut out the mask for the copper side from your printout. Place it face-down onto your board, so that the toner faces the copper. I use tiny bits of scotch tape on each edge to hold the mask in place. That might not be necessary if your blank is somewhat larger than your mask. I found that the mask tends to slide if it’s not securely taped; you want to avoid that when working with tight tolerances.

USE AN IRON!

This is the trickiest step. You need to set your iron to its highest setting, no steam. Lay a paper towel over the board & mask; otherwise, the sticky melted plastic that oozes out from under the edges of the mask will cause the whole thing to stick to your iron.

When first applying the iron, press straight down and try not to wiggle or slide the mask. The plastic surface layer of the paper will melt instantly, forming a temporarily slippery layer, which will tend to slide around if you’re not careful. This is where it’s easiest to screw up, I think.

Start by applying steady, firm pressure to the whole board for one minute, moving the iron occasionally to make sure that the whole board is heated thoroughly. After that, the mask is pretty much stuck to the board, so now you can go over the whole board with the edge of the iron, a little at a time.

I use the edge of the iron & lean on it some, putting good heavy pressure lengthwise along the board. Then I move the iron a quarter inch or so and repeat until the whole board is covered. Then I do the same series of “pressure lines” widthwise across the board. Finally, I finish with overall pressure for a few more seconds. The total ironing time is maybe 3 minutes, tops.

SOAK OFF THE PAPER

Drop the hot board immediately into a pan of hot water, along with any of the paper towel that might be attached. Some of the paper will start to come off right away. Help it along! After a few minutes, more paper can be pulled off. Also peel off any scotch tape you used to hold the mask to the board. After 10-20 minutes, you’ll be down to the last layer, which is more like plastic than paper. The traces will be clearly visible though it. Get a corner started, and the plastic should peel off easily, leaving you with a nicely masked board. If you’ve ironed well enough, the toner will be fused to the board solidly; it can’t be scraped off with a fingernail.

If the traces are messed up in any way — for example, if the iron slipped — you can clean off the fused toner with acetone and start over with a fresh mask.

PCB ETCHING

Drop the board into your etch solution. Don’t let the etch chemical get onto anything made of metal! I use a large plastic containter. Etch the board until the remaining copper is gone. Depending on how fresh & warm the etch chemical is, it could take 10-30 minutes.

CLEAN OFF THE MASK

Use acetone to clean off the toner. You’ll be left with a nice shiny circuit board!

APPLY THE SILKSCREEN LAYER

Now it’s time to add the “silkscreen” to the other side of the board. It’s not really a silkscreen; it’s actually the same process as described above, except that you leave the fused toner on the board and don’t do the etch and cleanoff.

To align the “silk”, I drill a hole in the four cornermost pads. After cutting out the silk mask, I place it toner-side-down against the side of the board opposite the traces. Holding it up to the light, you should be able to see the four corner holes through the mask. Use these to line up the silk mask properly, then tape it to the board with scotch tape. Next, iron the board the same way you did the copper side, and finally soak off the paper.

DRILL THE HOLES IN THE PCB

This is a little tricky, but can be done without requiring a drill press or other fancy equipment. I use a dremel tool with a #60 bit. That’s the smallest bit I can find at the local hardware store. The bit is clamped into a collet, which in turn is held in the dremel’s chuck.

Here’s my secret to drilling lots of tiny holes with a hand-held drill: use a scrap piece of acrylic as a drill guide. Drill a hole in the acrylic, then drill through that hole and through the board. The clear acrylic makes it easy to line up the drill bit correctly on the center of each pad. After a dozen holes or so, the “guide hole” in the acrylic will start to “loosen up” — just drill another guide hole & keep going.

FINISHED PCB

The board is ready to use.

I’ve made four boards using this method. The first one was perfect, but got ruined by sloppy soldering. The second and fourth were also perfect & worked great in projects. On the third board, I moved the iron when I first applied it, so the mask slipped and blurred some traces.

With a little practice, you can make a board in a couple hours (not counting design time).

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